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Application Tips |
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Decal Application Tips and Clear Coating Graphics.
Please fully read these instructions before using our product.
Thank you!
1. These instructions are for warm temperatures well above freezing, using wet application. If you must apply graphics in below freezing conditions, do not use wet application. Follow the same steps dry, but expect air bubbles to appear. (We do not recommend application of graphics in below freezing conditions...Cold days will also increase the set times. If you need to, do it indoors with some heat source.) Small decals approx. 2" and under should not require wet application.
2. Clean the surface that the graphic will be applied to. The surface must be void of solutions or solvents etc. If the surface has been freshly painted, allow at least a week for proper curing time. Paint will out-gas as it cures, attacking the vinyl adhesive. Paint cure times can vary depending on air moisture content, temperature and paint chemical composition.
3. The graphic is between a backing paper & a top see-through application tape. Some application tape is a paper type tape, while some could be a clear plastic type transfer tape. Peel off the backing paper making sure the whole graphic sticks to the application tape. Be sure to keep the decal dry before peeling backing paper off.
4. Now get the water out. Spray the surface (e.g. painted hood) with warm soapy water, covering the whole area. Be careful not to use too much soap or the vinyl may not stick as well. Use a mild dish soap such as Palmolive or Sunlight (only one drop or two in a spray bottle) . This will allow you to move the graphic into your preferred space and alignment. This will also help remove any air pockets under the graphic. We always say the more water the better as it really does help remove the air pockets nicely.
5. This is the most important step. Apply the graphic by sliding it onto the surface and locate it to your liking. Press firmly starting from the center out to edges. Use a credit card or similar item to squeegee out the soapy water and air. The key is to get all water out from under the graphic. Wait a period of time to allow adhesive to set. (Set times increase on cold days.)
6. Peel back the application tape carefully, should the graphic start to lift push it back down, apply more pressure, then continue peeling back the tape. Overview the graphic while it is still wet and push out any air pockets, careful not to move the graphic out of position. If graphics come with a clear plastic see through type transfer tape. This clear tape has a higher surface bond and will tend to release from the graphic if you apply some heat from a hair drier or heat gun on light setting. (Take care with heat guns!) If trimming is required be sure to use a new sharp blade. This will allow you to cut through the graphic & transfer tape clean with little pressure, thus not harming the paint surface underneath.
7. Let graphic dry before cleaning the area of water spots. If you have pushed out all air during the step 5 & 6, the graphic should not have air bubbles. Should any appear after drying, use a needle to extract air with a very small hole, but it is not necessary as, small bubbles will disappear over time with exposure to sun, and the air slowly seeps out.
8. Will last for years of viewing pleasure.
Paint procedure and Clear Coating Graphics.
This should only pertain to steel parts.
We do not recommend Clear Coat Painting of decals on Hoods.
The Clear Coat may fail, crack, peel and flake, due to vibration or hood flex from a minor roll over etc.
Our decals do not need to be clear coated, but the life span will be increased significantly if you choose to clear coat. Some clients know the correct type of clear coat to use on flexible hoods. Again we do not recommend Clear Coating Decals on flexible hoods. Also we have not tested all clear coat type paints and you should consult a professional paint shop to get perfect results. We've had great success with urethane base type clear coats for some parts. Such as a black painted steel tunnel.
Abrasive and harsh conditions during washing etc. will always do some damage to your cosmetic finish. Use your own judgment to decide how much time, effort & money you wish to spend for final results. The following steps are a guideline to follow. Some steps might be skipped if you are in a rush, but we cannot guarantee product if you skip steps. Consult a local professional paint shop for more information.
Also, visit this helpful site to find paint codes and tips for older Ski-doo models. Teshio.com OldSki-DooSleds
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1. Paint base coat color(s). Some base coats are more than one color to achieve a certain look.
2. Apply one layer of clear coat to bond to base coat color. This is to be done while the base coat is still tacky. (a bonding issue).
3. Let paint and clear coat fully cure. Cure times depend on air moisture content, temperature and paint chemical composition. (Professional painters use more or less hardener in the paint to speed or slow the cure time.)
4. Wet sand the entire painted surface to create the proper smooth surface. An 800 grit wet paper will provide a good smooth surface, but not too smooth, thus allowing clear coat paint to bond properly. Keep in mind clear coat paint is designed to be wet sanded to prepare for more coats of clear. You can't apply decals to paint that is still curing, also you can't wet sand until the clear coat has cured. It is not good procedure to wet sand the base coat colors, you don't want to remove color. Thus decals are applied between coats of clear.
5. Clean surface and apply decals/graphics.
6. Clean surface after decal application. (no water spots, oil or fingerprint residue)
7. Spray on your final clear coat multiple layers to completely cover entire bodywork surface and decals. Take care when laying down multiple coats of clear. It is ideal to spray one overall thin layer for your first coat. The first coat is an important step, consider this a sealer coat. Pause for a break after the first coat and allow a little extra time for this sealer coat to cure to the limit, (do not not allow to fully cure). This allows the clear to seal and bond properly to the decals. Then continue with further layers of clear. Laying down multiple layers of clear after the sealer coat can go more quickly. Pausing between each layer, with each coat never fully cured. Each coat must remain tacky to provide proper bonding. Too much paint at one time is almost always a disaster and especially during the first sealer coat stage. Again consult a professional painter if needed.
8. Let fully cure and enjoy your efforts. | |
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